Wedding, Maternity, Portrait, Event and Sports Photography

Holga Experiments

After receiving a 35mm convertor  I put my Holga to the test to see what results it would give me. I was back at the front of the queue as a complete amateur who wasn’t sure exactly what results I would get – it was exciting!

Image 1

120 film and it’s processing add up to a costly affair when you only get 12 – 16 shots (depending which adapter you have in) so it was an extra delight to know I had the economical option of 35mm film.

Or so I thought…

Image 2

Unfortunately you don’t get the choice of the 24 or 36 exposures as this becomes irrelevant when shooting with a Holga. I’ve managed to get between 8 and 12 shots with my adapter. This is due to having to forward the film for approximately one and a half turns after each shot. You should also consider the amount you wind the film when you first load it as this would have an effect.

When the 35mm adapter is installed you are using 1.75x the negative compared to a conventional 35mm shot, producing a semi panoramic photograph. This is exciting as you’re getting the extra quality but on the low side you’re limited on viewing this image to its full potential unless you scan it.

It wasn’t until I came to the end of my first test film that I realised there is no light proof case to wind the film into while it’s in the camera. This means you  need a dark bag or a friendly developer who is happy to remove it for you.

Another issue arises with printing. The 35mm adapter shoots over the sprockets of the negative. Unfortunately high street printers can’t accommodate this so the best thing is to have the negatives scanned.

Image 3

My advice is to get your negs UNCUT as this avoids any confusion on the developers side and you will maintain control of how the negs are cut and scanned.

Image 4

To capture as much of the image as possible it had to be printed on two photographs. Some duplicate areas would appear on both the prints, which is why I’ve laid the images over one and other to produce the print. Unfortunately on the image above  (Image 4) there is a section missing which is why there is a white strip separating the images.

Overall I’m really pleased  with the results and I can’t wait to see the image as a whole, inclusive of sprockets.

Image 5 (above), Image 6 (left), Image 7 ( right)

Focus Point

I am beginning to understand the focus points more enabling it to work to my advantage. Image 7 is one that particularly surprised me. The depth of field worked really well and I was surprised how sharp the duck was. In the beginning I wasn’t considering the minimum focus distance so this is something to bear in mind. I have more experimentation to do but loved the results from the Image 1 and Image 5. I wanted to create a dream like effect to make these two over photographed subjects more unique.

Take your Holga on holiday with you; I took mine to New Zealand. The new landscape is bound to bring inspiration and give a different effect from the standard holiday/postcard shots.

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The only issues are with printing and scanning facilities, which can be very restrictive and costly depending on where you are.

I’ve had the draw back of having to wait until I get home before I can view my images. On the up side I’ve  found it exciting awaiting the arrival of my prints. While flicking through unseen freshly made photographs I have  butterflies in my stomach, a feeling only felt when shooting on negative.

I have tried the 35mm adapter with the fish eye lens and found it doesn’t work as it should. There were issues with printing and the 35mm adapter is unable to capture the whole circular view, the top and bottom of the circle is cropped out due to the 35mm format, leaving the distortion and circular format to only appear on the sides.  I’m yet to try it on 120 film but believe to see a better result. This will be my next experiment.

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